Day 1: Wednesday 21st March:
We arrived at Tel Aviv Airport at 5.30am following a short four and half hour flight from Heathrow. Watched The Big Year on the plane and it wasn't as bad as expected. On arrival we got through passport control, immigration and baggage claim all pretty quickly and picked up the transit van to the Budget Car Rental Offices. A short while later we were off in our clean Mazda3 for Ashdod. It only took a few minutes to get used to the roads however this didn't stop Sheryl taking me the wrong way on a main road in rush hour within 15minutes. Still I managed to re-orientate quickly enough and arrived in Ashdod about 30minutes later. We stopped at a petrol station and got some snacks and drink for the day. On the way to Ashdod a few birds were noted with most notably a small flock of Glossy Ibis otherwise it was the Common Myna that seemed to be everywhere.
I texted Yoav and we would meet him soon at the rubbish tip so we made our way there and had a little birding around the small tip from the road. There was a large flock of around 250 White Storks grounded here, we would soon see them head off north, as well as a lot of manky looking Cattle Egrets. Gulls were instantly in my mind and within the first couple of minutes I had added Baltic, Heuglin's and Armenian Gulls to the tally. Nearby were a vocal pair of Sardinian Warblers and a Great Spotted Eagle was seen gaining height on thermals along with Black Kites.
The tip is small and can be viewed by walking to the south side where the trucks dump out the rubbish. A number of birds gather on the roof of the structure here and on the nearby fields.
A little while later Yoav appeared and after a few minutes we were in his car to go to the other side of the tip but within a minute we got grounded in sand. He was later able to get pulled out by a passing Bulldozer. We spent much of the morning studying the various large gulls present which included additions of Yellow-legged Gull, Steppe Gull and Caspian Gull whilst various plumages of Heuglin's Gull were studied. More detailed analysis of these birds will be provided soon on the Gulls web pages.
We also had a drive around the nearby pools which are private and gated but which Yoav has access. There were few gulls present on our first drive around but a sickly looking Caspian Gull was the most notable. We also had our only Temminck's Stints of the trip whilst seeing our first Wood and Common Sandpipers.
As it was warming up we headed to the beach to see if any gulls were present with a stop in a small scrub area where we had a couple of Gazelles and a couple of Bluethroats an odd looking Common Stonechat, had a bright white rump but was not a Siberian Stonechat. Could it be another form?
After a bite to eat and some coffee on the beach we returned to the tip which was by now slow with gulls so returned to the ponds again, leaving Sheryl to have a snooze in the car.
The ponds soon started to attract a good gathering of gulls but where they were gathering was not the best spot with the light coming from an angle and it was very difficult to get good exposed images of predominantly black and white birds. Still I managed a few images that were okay.
Here the numbers of Heuglin's Gull increased and we were well into double figures amongst the Baltic Gulls. Armenian and Caspian Gulls were minority species whilst a couple of birds that were identified as 'pale end' Heuglin's Gulls I was not so sure about. These I will study in more detail.
At about 2pm I decided it was time we headed north towards Ma'agan Mikhael and to try and avoid much of the rush hour traffic, not before seeing a couple of Great Spotted Cuckoos perched on the perimeter fence.
We parted ways with Yoav and headed off. Driving through Tel Aviv was easy enough and traffic fairly light and about and hour and half later we could see the fishponds.
We headed directly to the north ponds, go through a small industrial estate and explored the ponds the other side of the main road.
We found more gulls, Armenian's, which included some super adults, which Ashdod lacked, and a huge flight of Slender-billed and Black-headed Gulls pass overhead heading north. Other birds around the various ponds included both Pied ad White-breasted Kingfishers, a pond full of Night Herons, a Squacco Heron, Black-headed Wagtails and several commoner wader species including Spur-winged Plovers.
As it was now getting late we headed to the Dor Holiday Village, which was pretty much empty and soon located our room. As the nearby restaurant was closed we had to drive back into town and after some driving about Sheryl noted what was probably a retail park so we headed back down the hill to Route 4 and soon found an eatery. This was a sort of chicken sandwich bar type thing and we were able to get a nice baguette.
Much needed sleep then came following down loading of the day's photos from the first day in country.
Day 2: Thursday 22nd March
I left Sheryl in bed this morning to go back to the same pools as last night early. It was a little foggy as I drove down to the ponds but clear once I reached them. The gate to the left was closed so I drove the right hand track down to the beach seeing mostly the same species as yesterday however there was a fly by 1st year Great Black-headed Gull off the beach.
Back near the bridge the gate to the other fishponds was open so I drove to the area I visited yesterday. A lot of Pied Kingfishers were present and in a reedy area was a fine Woodchat Shrike and a brief Great Reed Warbler whilst Cetti's Warblers sing from the rank vegetation.
It was pretty much the same as yesterday, the same pond had a lot of Night Herons on it and the same embankment had a lot of Armenian Gulls however on one pond where a substantial number of Slender-billed Gulls 'fly-catching'.
Towards the southern end of these pools I was asked to leave by one of the site works in a 4x4 so I birded my way back to the gate taking the long way around via all of the other ponds, as you would.
Back at the accommodation Sheryl was up so I had a quick look around the grounds, which didn't produce a great deal other than a Hoopoe on the other side of the fence on the beach side.
After breakfast in the nearby restaurant, which was nice, we packed up and headed to the fishponds of Ma'agan Mikhael. After entering the Kibbutz gate turn immediately right and drive down to the ponds. The first large pond was drained with a few waders on it however a short walk near the SPNI produced a Bluethroat, numerous White-breasted Kingfishers which eluded the camera, Spoonbills and a couple of black Storks. We drove down to the southern end of the ponds, avoiding a large group of school children, to a couple of ponds covered in gulls.
These were mostly Slender-billed, black-headed and Armenian Gulls but with a 1st year Great Black-headed Gull mixed in, but unfortunately no adults. These ponds were productive and we drove around several times with the highlight being a pair of showy Stone Curlew at the southern end. Careful approach in the car got the birds down to a few metres.
Also around this end of the ponds was a fly over flock of Glossy Ibis, a Purple Heron and several other interesting species.
One of the most productive areas was near the toilet block near the coast. Here the ponds had close by vegetation which helped bolster the numbers of smaller herons with Night Herons and a Squacco Heron being found however the highlight was a large Egyptian Mongoose briefly close to the path which Sheryl almost missed as she didn't take he binoculars with her to the toilet, and a stunning and very confiding male Red-spotted Bluethroat.
At about 11am and once we had had our fill of the fish ponds we headed off towards Beit She'an, about a 2 hour drive.
We passed several large fishponds and decided to bird around the Neve Eitan ponds. We drove in by the entrance by the line of tall trees where a number of Black Kites were seen circling in the increasing wind.
We drove all around the ponds which were very productive with highlights being a flock of White Pelicans, a couple of Osprey's, 12 Cranes heading north, a Great Black-headed Gull, a Great Spotted Eagle, a couple of Hoopoes, up to 70 or more Black-headed Wagtails, a mongoose and numerous waders.
In the late afternoon we headed to Kfar Ruppin to sort out our accommodation and was provided details of birding areas nearby and where the best fishponds were currently, the Tirat Zevi ponds. We passed a field full of Black kites, at least 400, along the road to the kibbutz.
As the room we were to stay in wasn't ready yet we had a short wander around whilst they sorted this out seeing Syrian Woodpecker, a couple of Hoopoes, a Great Tit, Palestine Sunbird and a Jay.
Once sorted in the room we headed into town for something to eat, passing a Hedgehog on the way.
An end to a long but entertaining day.
Day 3: Friday 23rd March
Again left Sheryl in bed this morning as I went out early to bird around the Tirat Zevi Fishponds. Drove out of the kibbutz gate and took the tarmac road immediately on the left and the area was full of song with numerous Cetti's and Reed Warblers heard.
Along the road and near the Ringing Hut the first Spanish Sparrows were seen with an increase in passerines in general with species such as Bluethroat, Jay, Blackbird and Great Tit all noted.
The highlight however was the stunning singing Black Francolin near the date palms. This bird sat atop a pile of dead palm leaves right next to road and provided point blank views, stunning.
Once it had had enough of pumping out it's song and had flown into the plantation I headed onwards to the T-junction of the track. This is where it was not clear and after turn left failed to get me to the fish ponds, it takes you to the border fence, and turning right ends at the far end of the date palms I decided to back track and take the long way around to the fish ponds via the main road and Tirat Zevi kibbutz. Along the way was a large flock, several hundred, of Spanish Sparrows on the roadside.
After a short drive of about 10-15minutes and a short drive around the kibbutz I eventually found the way in to the fishponds. Follow the sign to the reservoir about 100metres before reaching the kibbutz gate.
On the drive to the fishponds was another Black Francolin whilst Black Kites were much in evidence. The sewage ponds held a couple of immature Great black-headed Gulls but with the light in the wrong place I would have to leave them to photograph later on.
The ponds were of various sizes with several with low water levels good for waders and duck were in evidence. Numerous additions to the trip list were to be had here including Garganey, Pochard, Corn Bunting, Pygmy Cormorant and several others.
I was at the north eastern side of the ponds and happen to notice a fairly broad track heading away from the ponds and towards the date palms I was around earlier in the morning and decided to follow it. It took me to the track near the T Junction I got stumped at earlier and which I had totally by-passed in my frustration to find the ponds, now I know.
On return to the ponds I the located a very low water level pond at the far eastern end which was packed full of waders with lots of Little Stints, Ringed Plovers and Ruff along with several Spotted Redshank, Marsh Sandpipers and Little Ringed Plovers amongst others. It was a productive visit.
At about 9am I was back around the sewage ponds when I received a text from Sheryl advising breakfast was at the room so I headed back up the way I came in rather than crossing back to the track in date palms. Along the main road a soaring Short-toed Eagle was seen.
Back at the accommodation there was no sign of Sheryl so a short walk around the kibbutz looking for her resulted in Hoopoes, Syrian Woodpecker, Sunbirds, Jays, Sardinian Warbler and Red-rumped Swallows.
After finding Sheryl we had breakfast and headed out again along the road to the ringing hut and had a walk around the brush here and a short visit to the pond hide. This hide I suspect would be most productive just after first light when birds come to drink and in the heat of the day though as its south facing looking into the light could be a problem.
Around the ringing hut bushes and brush we had Hoopoe, at least three Great Spotted Eagles, Hen Harrier over the fields and five Dead Sea Sparrows with the Spanish Sparrows. Various other common resident and migrants were noted whilst a big flock of White Storks were seen gaining height and heading north.
The fishponds again produced pretty much the same as earlier however water was now being pumped into the wader pool and mud was already being covered.
Back at the Kibbutz for a break and walk around didn't produce much different from earlier though again Syrian Woodpecker showed well.
For the evening we returned to the Neve Eitan Fish ponds as yesterday and again spent a fruitful few hours here. Much was the same as yesterday but with greater exploration of complex resulted in a stunning point blank range Citrine Wagtail along with various Black-headed Wagtail types, three immature Great Black-headed Gulls, Purple Heron, Wood, Green and Common Sandpipers, 40 Cranes, four Great Spotted Eagles, including a very fine spotty immature, a juvenile Lesser Spotted Eagle, two White Pelicans, a Pygmy Cormorant.
Back at Kfar Ruppin I head a Scops Owl but my Spotlight just didn't work so couldn't looking for it. The resident Barn Owl was seen to leave its daytime hang out.
Another good day.
Day 4; Saturday 24th March
Initially we had trouble getting out of the gate of the kibbutz, we had not actually realised at this time that I needed to phone a number to get the gate open so I was ringing the wrong number. After about 20minuites delay and lost birding time we were on our way to the Tirat Zevi Fish Ponds again via the Black Francolin which was again proclaiming his territory from his pile of dead palm leaves.
There were five Jackals on the road near the Ringing Hut and a both Quail and Savi's Warbler were heard from the crops near the plantation but neither were seen.
The fishponds produced again today. A fine singing Clamorous Reed Warbler was along the reedy north edge of the ponds whilst numerous Snipe and further Clamorous Reeds were picked up further around. Six Spoonbills were on a drained pond and a sickly looking Great Black-headed Gull was still here from yesterday.
A Dead Sea Sparrow appeared close to us in a bush whilst we watched a second Clamorous Reed Warbler but I messed up on the camera settings and it was one that was lost.
Generally the same waders were present around the site however yesterday's main wader pool was mostly full now with only a small corner of mud still showing but this had a good concentration of birds on it.
A further new bird was found in the form of a fine male Little Crake in a small reedy corner of the reedbed closest to the Tirat Zevi Kibbutz. I had noted this pond yesterday but as it was a little late in the day I thought it could hold a crake today, and it did. This bird performed well for the next 20 minutes or so.
On the way back to base for breakfast we came across a flock of Black Storks were sat in a tree. These birds had not been here when we came along earlier. Despite careful approach the birds didn't like our presence, the tree was right next to the road, and they took of and circled off high to the north with a total of 25 counted.
After breakfast we headed over to and up Mt. Gilboa, which was very verdant green. We missed the turn off I was looking for, a dirt track on the left, but soon located it on the drive back down. Over this track Sheryl found a very fine Short-toed Eagle just above us whilst Sardinian Warblers and Whitethroats sang all around us.
We parked up by the barns and walked up towards the outcrop and gully where the trees were and followed a track to the left to clear the cliffs. Again Sardinian Warblers sang and Steppe Buzzards were on the move. Jays were vocal in the nearby trees appearing a lot paler than the birds from home.
It took a while but I located a single singing Long-billed Pipit up the hill, a wobbly heat haze scope view. It was pleasant looking across the valley whilst storks, buzzards, more Short-toed Eagles and now Long-legged Buzzards and Red-rumped Swallows passed over the ridge above us. A pleasant hour or so.
On the way back to the car I noticed three Great Spotted Cuckoos flying across the meadow and landing in a lone small bush so once back at the car we drove long the track to get a better view. It took about 10minutes to do this but two birds were still present but given the heat haze no pictures were possible.
It was now time for the drive south to Lido Junction at the north end of the Dead Sea to meet up with Barak Granit. It was interesting to see the landscape change through semi arid to basically desert in just over an hours drive. The Jordanian Mountains were murky due to dust storms this year and the views were not as good as they could have been.
Whilst waiting at the service station at Lido a flock of 30 or so Steppe Buzzards drifted over, the first sizeable flock seen, and a Fan-tailed Raven was around the petrol pumps.
After meeting up with Barak we headed south to the sidetrack just before the checkpoint midway down the Dead Sea. We headed up the switchbacks to Wadi Nagot and once the tarmac ran out carefully drove along the bumpy dirt track to the top viewpoint. A bunch of numpties on off road cart things expected us to get out of the way for them to get by where there was no place to pull over for them.
At the view point the view was spectacular along the gorge and across the surrounding desert. The main target here was one of only a handful of nesting Bonelli's Eagles in Israel. The nest on the opposite side of the gorge is well known and had two chicks in residence. Pale Rock Martins flew around the cliff edges keeping us amused whilst we waited for the adult eagles to appear. When they did they headed straight to the nest where they lingered for half hour or so before providing some excellent fly by views, others have had better views of these birds than us but we were not disappointed. The only Pallid Harrier was also seen here above the cliffs distantly on the other side of the gorge.
On the drive down the mountain we passed several Nubian Ibex. We moved on and stopped briefly at Wadi Mishmar, which was totally birdless so continuing south a short stop, a Lot Reservoir near Ein Gedi saw me find a stunning male Cyprus Pied Wheatear. The stop was brief as we needed to get to Neot Hakikkar and meet up with the other group of birders for a Nightjar search.
After the formalities with the Army to gain access it wasn't long after it got dark, and it got dark quick, that we were having superb spotlight views of both Egyptian Nightjar and two Nubian nightjars. Once we had had our fill of these birds we set of for the Hume's Owl.
This was to be less successful as despite trying at least six sites we failed to score any birds what so ever and heard only one. Oh well I guess it's a bird to return for some day.
We packed up at about 10pm as we had a two-hour drive back to the kibbutz and I was concerned there could be issues getting in through the gate but thankfully we had no trouble. Finally got to bed sometime after midnight.
Day 5: Sunday 25th March
Following the late night and long drive yesterday we were actually up fairly late today, 7am. After dropping the key off at the office we were off on our way back to where we were last night picking up three Southern Grey Shrikes along roadside wires, 50+ Steppe Buzzards and a couple of Steppe Eagles over the highway just past Lido Junction and an increase in Tristram's Grackles from the mere couple we had seen previously.
We had a short stop at the Ein Gedi rest stop where we had a good roll and a chat with some birders who had been up Wadi Salvador, where they had seen Mountain Bunting and Sinai Rosefinch, both birds I would like to catch up with this trip.
We drove to Wadi Mishmar and drove to the end of the track where we were unable to get into the parking area as a coach had managed to ground itself right at the entrance to it. All the cars already in the parking lot were unable to exit so we were a little lucky really that we didn't arrive earlier and get blocked in.
We parked a little bit further back along the approach track and headed up the Wadi. Sheryl stayed on the easier walking path and I walked the boulder strewn Wadi. Overhead were at least 150 migrating Steppe Buzzards along with 2 Steppe Eagles whilst an Alpine Swift was seen high up with them also. The bushes in the Wadi were heaving with warblers. Most were Lesser Whitethroats however there were numerous Blackcaps and my target bird, Cyprus Warbler. A stunning singing male was seen well though eluded having any decent photos being taken. A further less well marked male was also seen.
A large Sylvia warbler that was initially identified as an Orphean Warbler now seems to have been an Arabian Warbler; it lacked pale eyes, but also eluded its picture being taken.
Additional birds along the quickly warming up Wadi included five Blackstarts, three Desert Larks, a Fan-tailed Raven and Tristram's Grackles.
Moving on from here we done a bit of sight seeing visiting the mountain fortress of Masada for a couple of hours. Always on the lookout for birds even in the non-birding parts of the trip I found the first White-crowned Black Wheatear of the trip whilst Tristram's Grackles were common, a pair of Fan-tailed Ravens lingered around the cliffs and Pale Rock Martins were present.
Given the nature of the fortress and its history return to the visitor centre by the cable car a McDonalds just didn't seem right to me.
So late afternoon we were heading south for our first night in Eilat but decided to get some birding in at the Yotvata North Fields where Caspian Plovers had been seen on and off the previous few days. We failed to find the plovers but the hedged fields yielded a female Semicollared Flycatcher, at least five Eastern Redstarts, race Samamisicus, several Marsh and Hen Harriers, an Isabelline Wheatear, several Chiffchaffs and the trips most confiding Hoopoe right next to the car.
Once it was too dark to bird we continued south the Youth Hostel. Our arrival coincided with an arrival of youths and the place was mayhem. Eventually we got to our room and thankfully we were located away from the noise. It appears they were having a party the following night.
There was secure parking at the rear of the hostel however our room was on the top floor and at the front of the building.
After sorting ourselves out we went for a meal at the Beatles restaurant, which is only a short walk away. The steak was nice but expensive for what you actually get, about 120ILs, which is about £20.
Day 6: Monday 26th March
For me this was to be the main event of the trip, birding the southern Arava Valley for the next five days. We were up and out early to get to Ofira Park, a short drive away. Back in 1996 I remembered this park to be a haven for pipits, buntings and wagtails however I had heard recent stories that it was no longer watered and was pretty much birdless save for Lesser Whitethroats.
However this was not the case this year. We parked up and found the lawns to be covered in Red-throated Pipits, Spanish Sparrows, Cretzschmar's Buntings and Black-headed Wagtails whilst the trees were full of warblers. Over the next hour or so walking around the park we saw Woodchat Shrike, an immature Masked Shrike, an Ortolan Bunting, Sardinian Warbler, Wryneck, a couple of Quail, Tree pipits, a couple of Eastern/Ehrenbergs Redstart, a Pied Wheatear and Eastern Bonelli's Warblers plus common species such as House Crown, Common Swift, House Martins, Blackcaps, Ring-necked parakeets and White Wagtails. Doesn't seem like a lot on paper but it was great birding.
From here I thought we should checkout Holland Park on the north edge of town however were perhaps a little late in the day arriving at this site as the temperature was already getting up. The low scrub of this park differed greatly from Ofira Park and was more attractive to Sylvia warblers.
The more open areas yielded Bluethroat, lots of Lesser Whitethroats, Wryneck, Sardinian Warblers, Black-eared Wheatears and Eastern Bonelli's Warblers whilst Steppe Buzzards and a Steppe Eagle passed overhead.
From here I decided to investigate the Sewage Ponds at km19 to get a lay of the land and see the most likely spot for when the sandgrouse come in in the evening. Only one pool had water in it, the other was completely dry. The usual suspects were around the ponds edges however five Red-rumped Swallows passed through, along with several Sand and House Martins whilst an Olivaceous Warbler was in the isolated bush on the north side.
After half an hour we pressed on to the north date palm plantations. These are not as big as the more southerly ones with the palms rather shorter. The site held Israel's first record of vittata Pied Wheatear which was eventually seen. The temperature was getting right up now and activity was busy within the plantations with three Isabelline Wheatears, around the fields nearby, male Masked Shrike, Bluethroat, Eastern and Common Redstarts, Eastern Bonelli's Warblers and 6 or more Cretzschmar's Buntings. Not bad for walking only about 20yards from the car.
The km20 Salt Pans were next up and despite the heat haze good birding was had. As with the sewage ponds the usual waders were present, large numbers of Stilts, Ruff and Little Stints as well as a couple of Marsh Sandpipers, numerous Kentish Plovers and four Black-tailed Godwits. At least 40 Greater Flamingo's were on the northern pans and several hundred Slender-billed Gulls fed on flies.
We spent a good couple of hours here going through the waders looking for a couple of Black-winged Pratincoles reported a couple of days ago but no luck.
Late morning we tried out the Ice Cream at Yotvata and as expected it was superb, a real must, before heading out to the fields. Again no sign of Caspian Plover but plenty of larks, wheatears and pipits with pick going to a couple of Isabelline Wheatears, a dozen or so Red-throated Pipits and a Tawny Pipit whilst a pair of Little Green Bee-eaters were seen at nest holes.
Early afternoon was spent at the Uvda Valley Road looking for Israel's 6th recorded Basalt Wheatear. We searched the area about half a mile from the turn off from the main road where around 200 or so Short-toed Larks were seen along with 10+ Crested Larks, 10+ Desert Larks, a couple of Scrub Warblers, a nice male self found Cinereous Bunting, a flew through Barbary Falcon, at least one Trumpeter Finch, a fly over Spotted Sandgrouse and eventually the Basalt Wheatear. It has a habit of disappearing and ranging over a wide area. Also there was no sign of any Thick-billed or Temminck's Larks, which were meant to be around.
This then basically saw a close to the day and set us on 166 species for the trip so far.
Day 7: Tuesday 27th March
As White-eyed Gulls were being scarce off North Beach we had a drive along South Beach stopping and searching where we could until I found three lingering around the Dolphin Centre. This was final gull of the trip but they were far from photographable but at least we had good scope views. From here it was round to North Beach where I located one of the Brown Boobies sat on a buoy on the Jordanian side of the border. Offshore were Sandwich Tern, Baltic Gull, Slender-billed Gulls and about 20 Garganey. From what I remember North Beach is better in the evening so will have to return later.
We made another visit to Ofira Park where at least 20 or more Cretzschmar's Buntings were on the lawns as well as the same species as before. Sheryl then said what's that bird with the white moustache and pointed into the bush with lots of Lesser Whitethroats. It was a stunning male Ruppell's Warbler and I spent about half an hour on the hill photographing it, a real gem.
Whilst there I suddenly became aware of a crowd of birders gathering behind me and at least 12 Finnish birders had appeared from nowhere to enjoy the Ruppell's as well.
Also around the park this morning were Orphean Warbler, Ortolan Bunting and Eastern Bonelli's Warbler.
In Central Park, the other side of the airport runway and near the Imax Centre, the species were similar with numerous Cretzschmar's Buntings, Red-throated Pipits and Ortolan Buntings along with Hoopoe and Red-rumped Swallows amongst the now familiar species. Although we didn't visit the park again longer time in Eilat would certainly pay rewards here.
Back at Yotvata and again no Caspian Plovers despite ongoing reports of them being around. We had a short walk around the 'picnic' area behind the petrol station before heading off to Lotan Kibbutz. We were however arriving a little late in the morning and birding activity was already dropping off in the heat.
After eventually finding reception we head out for a walk around the garden areas, returning back via the swimming pool area and then heading out to the sewage ponds. The ponds were productive with plovers and small waders as well as insectivorous passerines. The tally from the kibbutz in a couple of hours four Bluethroat, a male Lesser kestrel, three fly over Black Storks, flocks of 70 and 15 Common Cranes north up the Arava, several hundred Steppe Buzzards, a couple of Cretzschmar's Buntings, 6 Redstarts, 5+ red-throated Pipits, male and female Siberian Stonechats, an Isabelline Wheatear, a male Woodchat Shrike, 10+ Water Pipits, a Hoopoe and a Sedge Warbler as well as several Rock Martins, Blackstarts, Northern Wheatears and Black-eared Wheatears.
On paper actually better than expected.
Back at the Yotvata fields three Bimaculated Larks amongst the large flock of Short-toed Larks vied with a pair of Namaqua Dove as star bird whilst the usual crowd of pipits, larks, wagtails and wheatears were also present.
More Ice cream and then down to Eilat and the International Bird Research Centre (IRBC) for the evening. This was productive in the cooling temperatures with a male Masked Shrike just inside the gate, 2 Orphean Warblers, a fine male Semicollared Flycatcher, 10 Red-necked Phalaropes, Bluethroat, Graceful Prinias, 18 Baltic Gulls, a Caspian Tern and a female Little Crake wandering around in front of the pool hide. Some great relaxed birding.
We returned to the Sewage Ponds for dusk and sat down on the far side of the pool however despite some warblers and wheatears around the outflow there was no sign of the Litchenstein's Sandgrouse, apparently this is a no show for the second night running.
Day 8: Wednesday 28th March
Following some directions from birders the previous evening we returned early morning to the Uvda Road to search for the Thick-billed Lark flock. We soon found the location, the track off to the right that runs towards the two dark hills.
Once parked up we began to search to the west of the track and were only finding Short-toed Larks so after about half a mile we turned around and headed back in the other direction and after about quarter of a mile past the car I came across a lark flock of around 300 Short-toed Larks and amongst these were about 30 or so Thick-billed Larks.
These showed well and even stayed put when the Short-toed Larks got up and headed off.
Whilst photographing these birds we had a visit from the Army who advised that we should not point any cameras to the south as there was an airbase there. After exchanging pleasantries they left us with the birds and we decided to head off to look for Crowned Sandgrouse at the Shizzafon Sewage Ponds. Despite a prolonged stay here no sandgrouse appeared but this no show was mitigated by a fine territory holding male White-crowned Black Wheatear. A female was also present in the sewage works, we were able to freely walk around so was soon seeing a female Pied Wheatear, several Black-eared Wheatears, Bluethroats, Water and Red-throated pipits, a Wryneck, Blackstart, Siberian Stonechat, a fine male Blue Rock Thrush on the perimeter fence, Trumpeter Finch and the only Grey Wagtail of the trip. A productive isolated site.
Again back at the Yotvata fields not seeing Caspian Plover but midday highlights were Masked and Woodchat Shrikes, Orphean Warbler, a good scattering of Common and Eastern Redstarts and three species of Wheatear whilst a female Pied Flycatcher was the only one of the trip.
Whilst heading back south to Eilat I drove up the Hidden Valley road looking for wheatears though the only one found was a female White-crowned Black Wheatear and a Sardinian Warbler only.
We got to the Eilot roundabout and doubled back to the north date palm plantation at km20 where a good walk around here gave us a male Namaqua Dove, seven Black-eared Wheatears, a couple of Bluethroats, 14+ Redstarts, at least four Northern Wheatears, Tree Pipit, three Hoopoes, a male Pied Wheatear, dozens of Lesser Whitethroats, three Indian Silverbills and a Wryneck. Again all this within a short walk of the car.
The Salt Pans were pretty much as before with similar mix of birds however there were three Avocets, a number of Marsh Sandpipers and plenty of Kentish Plovers.
Over the north fields whilst heading back to Eilat was a mixed hirundine flock, which we investigated and amongst the usual species were three Red-rumped Swallows, a rock martin and singles of Pallid and Alpine Swifts.
A couple of hours was then spent at the Aquarium which was very good with so many stunning fish it was easy to see the attraction of diving. I can recommend a visit here.
After here it was back to North Beach for about 4pm where two Brown Boobies were present on the Jordan side of the gulf, two Sandwich Terns, three Great Black-headed Gulls, 15+ Baltic Gulls, two White-eyed Gulls, 75+ distant Garganey, at least 200+ Steppe Buzzards heading high to the north along with 15 Black Kites. A much better showing from the beach still missing a couple of key species from here though.
Drove to and then had a pleasant evening walk around the nearby south Date Palm plantation where a male Pied Wheatear was perhaps the star but many Eastern Bonelli's Warblers were flycatching from the track fencing whilst within the plantation were three Woodchat Shrikes and several Black-eared Wheatears and Redstarts.
A very pleasant end to the evening.
Day 9: Thursday 29th March
Decided that today should be the day to go to Nizzana so we could have Friday as a more localised chill day. We were up and out at 2.30am and it took three hours to get to the km7 point along the Ezuz Road. Timing was spot on as it was just getting light.
It took about 20minutes to locate the first McQueen's Bustard. It was a case of drive, stop and scan. Over the next hour it became apparent that there was a pair of birds present and they eventually showed well close to the road for us and a car of other birders.
There was also a stunning pair of Cream-coloured Coursers in the area, which simply outshone the Arabian Babblers on the roadside.
We then moved to the nearby sewage ponds and with the help of another birder found the right place to look for the sandgrouse when they came in, basically at the large gap in the fence in the southeast corner. As we waited a male Merlin was scoped on the mud of the half filled pond before it flew off, a Southern Grey Shrike on the bushes behind us, numerous White Storks lifting off and heading north, Scrub Warbler and Turtle Dove.
We had two Spotted Sandgrouse come in for a few minutes, which were followed, by 12 Crowned Sandgrouse and then a lone female Black-bellied Sandgrouse. This was far far fewer sandgrouse than expected but apparently there had been some rain a few weeks prior to our visit so it seems plausible that there was water elsewhere so the birds didn't have to come here. Still some sandgrouse is better than no sandgrouse, especially as Crowned was a lifer.
A long drive back to Eilat was punctuated with several stops with a walk around Ben Gurion's home yielding familiar species with the first Nightingale of the trip and fine male Easter Redstart keeping interest going.
A side stop in Mizpe Ramon failed to find any Syrian Serins but we had a couple of Hoopoes and stunning views across the Ramon Crater.
I had to make a stop along the drive back as I was getting really tiered so a convenient Wadi, Wadi Zohor, was made the most of. I thought about taking a nap but decided to walk up the well vegetated Wadi and found it was full of warblers with a stunning male and three female Ruppell's Warblers, three Orphean Warblers and by now familiar species which helped to wake me up.
I thought it would be productive if we drove around the grounds of Kibbutz Neot Semadar looking for Syrian Serin's but again we did not see any. This was not a bad thing as the place was full of migrants and was highly entertaining. Of the interesting species we had 11 Black-eared Wheatears, a couple of Hoopoe, a Cyprus Pied Wheatear in a paddock, immature male Ruppell's Warbler, Eastern Bonelli's Warblers, Orphean Warbler, Masked Shrike, Cretzschmar's Buntings and a stunning male Rock Thrush. This birding certainly woke me up.
We end the day down at the Yotvata fields, with hindsight we should have stay longer at Neot Semadar but I was still hopeful of Caspian Plover. Despite the strong dust storms, we had to eventually give up because it got so bad, we had a dark morph Booted Eagle and a flock of 23 migrating Purple Herons, followed by a singleton.
We headed back to town once the dust got to bad.
Day10: Friday 30th March
Last full day in country today so started off at Ofira Park where at least 35 Cretzschmar's Buntings were on the lawns, three Quail were flushed, a Water Pipit and a confiding immature Masked Shrike were the highlights amongst the now regular fare here.
Once it started to warm up we drove to the top viewpoint of Mt. Yoash where we waited for the raptors to head through. After about 15minutes I starting pick up on individual birds but soon the mountains over towards the gulf had hundreds of Steppe Buzzards above them. Most birds passed to the east of us but from up here we could see at least 3000 buzzards moving through. This was impressive by any standard.
Amongst these were 250+ Black Kites, two Steppe Eagles, a Sparrowhawk, two Egyptian Vultures, a dark morph Booted Eagle, four Alpine Swifts and ten Common Swifts. As passage began to slow we headed back to the IRBC reserve where a couple of Booted Eagles, both pale morphs, and a Steppe Eagle were seen heading north overhead. The reserve and salt pans here held 14 Red-necked Phalaropes, Red-rumped Swallows and Masked Shrike amongst the commoner species in a few pleasant hours.
We walked around the southern Date Palms which was quieter than last visit, probably as it had got warm, but still had super views of a first-summer Semicollared Flycatcher, Tawny Pipit and a Pied Wheatear plus a few commoner but still entertaining species.
Near the saltpans three Little Green Bee-eaters flew north and were probably the same three we saw later at the km20 Date Palm Plantation. At the km20 Cowsheds at least 200+ Short-toed Larks were present along with several Cretzschmar's Buntings and Wood Sandpiper.
The north Date Palms had a showy Nightingale, two Squacco Herons, a couple of Eastern Redstarts, three Black-eared Wheatears, Hoopoe and Wryneck but we didn't see the Olive-backed Pipits that had been reported here. The Salt Pans were again pretty much as before however there were now three Red-necked Phalaropes and an elusive Greater Sandplover and 12 Baltic Gulls. So the list kept moving forward slowly.
We ended the day again at the sewage works where there was a flock of 17 Pintail and a couple of Cormorants whilst a Caspian Tern fished the pond in the rapidly failing light. At least 40 Sand Martins went to roost in the reeds here.
Whilst we were sat down waiting for the sandgrouse we had some late comers arrive in the near dark and proceed to stand right where the sandgrouse were expected to arrive and they ignored our indication to sit down like everyone else.
As this was our last night these jokers risked us not seeing the Litchenstein's Sandgrouse so I got up and had to walk over to them to get told them to sit down like the rest of us as they would prevent the birds coming in. it was about 2 minutes later when everyone was sat down that two birds flew in and landed right in front of them. Bet that wouldn't have happened had they been standing up.
After a few minutes of scoping these birds they flew to the end of the embankment and were joined by two others as they crept to the waters edge for a drink. After only 5 minutes they were up and away and that was that. Job Done, just.
Day11: Saturday 31st March
Final morning so decided to pay a return visit to Lotan however we were unable to get through the gate as no one answered the phone to let us in. To save time then we moved to Neot Semadar think this would be easier as it was a manual gate and someone should be present however again we couldn't get entry. This is probably in no small part due to it being Shabbat, most things close from dusk on Friday to dusk on the Saturday so no one is basically working.
As we were not able to get in we moved a little way back down the road to where the crops were being irrigated and this was a good move as the place was heaving with birds. We just stayed here for the next couple of hours notching up three Savi's Warblers, three Olivaceous Warblers, nine Black-eared Wheatears, several Tree and Red-throated Pipits, in excess of 50 Lesser and Common Whitethroats, male Masked Shrike, 25+ Ortolan Buntings, a Cretzschmar's Bunting, at least five Bluethroats several other interesting species.
Even by the end of this the gate was still not open so we pressed on north towards Tel Aviv.
Sheryl needed to make a pit stop at the services at Ben Gurion and almost immediately an Egyptian Vulture soared over the road. I parked up and whilst waiting for Sheryl three more came overhead as well as a couple of Griffon Vultures and three Lesser Kestrels along with Steppe Buzzards and Black Kites.
Before long we had to press on and apart from a Short-toed Eagle and a couple of Lesser Kestrels little of real note was seen. Common Myna's and Hooded Crows became more apparent as we got back to the greener areas.
So there it is, our ten and half days in Israel and although a few birds were missed the trip was superb.